Last Updated on January 3, 2024 by Soumya
Very recently, I had an amazing opportunity to visit Bodoland in Assam thanks to Awesome Assam and Bodoland Tourism. I was one of the 12 travel bloggers chosen to showcase the beauty of Bodoland to the world. And boy! Did I have fun? The trip was an extraordinary one. It was filled with fun, adventure, and so much learning. I learned a lot about the native Bodo people, their history, culture, and traditions. And that was the best part of the trip for me.
In this post, I would like to share some of what I learned about the Bodo people, an indigenous tribe that inhabits the Brahmaputra river valley in Northern Assam. It is true that Bodoland has been involved in insurgencies in the recent past. But the government and the people are making a sincere attempt to move beyond the deadly past and focus on the future. And tourism forms an important part of that move. If you are still concerned about traveling to the Bodoland region of Assam, do scroll down to the end of the post where I talk about travel safety.
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But first, let’s take a deep dive into the life and culture of Bodo people.
Bodos (pronounced BO – ROs) are members of an indigenous tribe that inhabits a good part of northern Assam. They are mostly located in and around the Brahmaputra river valley. Bodos were one of the earliest settlers of Assam. And today, they are one of the largest ethnic groups in the state.
History of Bodoland
Bodos have had a rough history in the recent past. Traumatic to say the least. Bodos always wanted a sovereign Bodo homeland. They demanded this to counter illegal immigration, loss of their language and culture, and forced assimilation which have always been part of life here.
The movement for a separate state started nonviolently but progressed to become quite violent in the 1990s. Many people lost their lives during this time. There was no growth. Bodoland came to a standstill until the first set of peace agreements were signed and the Bodoland Territorial Council was formed in 2003. Again, the period between 2012-14 saw a number of violent deaths and riots. But things have stabilized after that. Right after we came back from our trip to Bodoland, in Jan 2020, another historic accord was signed with the Govt. of India. A Bodoland Territorial Region was formed with enhanced powers. The government and the people are looking forward to growing now.
Bodos believe they are among the earliest settlers of Assam before the rest came in. They are proud of their indigenous heritage and it is key that we respect this pride. Bodos do not find it amusing when referred to as the Assamese. So, please keep this in mind while traveling in Bodoland.
My two cents: Refer to Bodos as the Bodos and not as the Assamese.
The Bodo Language
People in Bodoland speak the Bodo (Boro) language. And it is not exactly the same as the Assamese language. Though many Bodos can speak Assamese. Bodo language has Tibeto-Burman origins. It is one of the official languages of Assam.
During one of our outings in the Manas National Park, we met a senior member of Bodo Sahitya Sabha, an organization that is striving to promote the revival of Bodo language and literature. You can learn more about it on their official website.
The kids of Bodoland are a friendly lot. Always camera-ready.
Religion of Bodos
Most Bodos practice Bathouism, the traditional religion of Bodos. This involves worshipping of forefathers and a Shijou tree that adorns the central courtyard of all Bodo homes. The Shijou is a kind of succulent that grows really tall. In Bodo homes, it is encircled by a boundary of bamboo sticks and receives the worship of a deity.
Some Bodo people also practice Brahmaism, a religious concept closer to Hinduism. In Brahmaism, people burn a fire called Homa and pray to God through that. You won’t find a Shijou tree in Brahmaic homes.
People can be sensitive about religion. On my trip to one of the Bodo homes, I carelessly assumed that it was a Brahmaic home because there was no Shijou tree. However, I later realized that it was a newly-constructed Bathou home and the owners had not yet planted their Shijou.
My two cents: Steer clear of discussions on religion and politics while meeting with locals in Bodoland.
Food and drinks of Bodo people
Absolutely delectable vegetarian food in Bodoland
Rice is a primary food item in the Bodo cuisine. Bodos eat boiled rice like anywhere else in India. Plus, they make steamed rice cakes (pithas) out of rice powder. Rice is also used to make alcoholic drinks such as rice beer and wine. The rice wine is called Zu Mai.
Apart from rice, there is a lot of non-vegetarian component in Bodo cuisine. Fish and dried fish are regulars. Bodos also love their pork and eat it fried, roasted, or curried. Pork meat is referred to as Oma Bedor. Another interesting meaty component is the silkworm. Silkworms are a delicacy in Bodoland. Bongaigaon was the first place where I tried silkworms in India. They are chewy and taste kind of like egg yolk. Not my kind of meat but some of my team members loved it. Bodos deep fry their silkworms and relish them with diced onions, coriander, and savory spices. So, when in Bodoland, do try their silkworm chaat!
Can you find vegetarian food in Bodoland?
The answer is a resounding yes! Even I had not expected so many veggie items in Bodo cuisine. But I tried a veg platter on the day we visited a local Bodo home and I was pleasantly surprised. We started off with delicious curry leaf fritters. Then we had rice, daal, two varieties of spinach, potato fry (this is the aloo bhaja in Odia and Bengali cuisine), cabbage curry, sauteed beet, and carrots. This was accompanied by Narzi – a bitter gravy made out of jute leaves. Well, the Narzi was quite bitter for my taste. By the way, I am a big fan of karela (bitter gourd) and Neem flowers (another bitter Indian delicacy). Even then, the Narzi was quite bitter for me. But I loved the other dishes.
For snacks, Bodo people love their lal chaa (red tea) and with some pitha. Or you may be served a plate full of silkworm fry and rice wine to devour. If you are looking for a deep dive into Bodo cuisine, check out this detailed Bodo food guide by Indrani Ghose, a Season 1 Bodoland Ambassador.
Traditional Costumes – Bodo Dokhona and Gamsa
The Female Dokhona
Bodo woman wears a Dokhona Bodo woman sports a Jwmgra
The Dokhona is the traditional costume of Bodo women. It is a single piece of cloth and kind of looks like the Indian saree but it is not really the same. Women wear the Dokhona in a way that it covers their chest till the ankle. Underneath, they wear a blouse (shirt) to cover their shoulders.
Bodo Dokhonas are very colorful. They are woven in all sorts of colors: blue, green, yellow, purple, and orange. And then they are adorned with elaborate designs such as those of flowers, butterflies, hills, cat prints, leaves, and ferns. These designs are referred to as the Agor in the local Bodo language. Weaving of Agor is a pretty important part of being a woman in the Bodo culture. Apparently, it is an extremely important quality to possess if a girl wishes to get married.
However, sometimes Dokhonas are simple and plain without the Agor. Austere Dokhonas are used during weddings, festivals, and worshipping of Gods. Dokhonas are often paired with two accessories – the Aronai and the Jwmgra. The Jwmgra is worn as a scarf around the neck. The Aronai is worn around the waist to further accentuate the beauty of the Dokhona.
The Male Gamsa
The Gamsa is the traditional dress of Bodo men. They wear it from their waist till the knee. It is usually striped or chequered and available in attractive colors. This is quite similar to the quintessential Indian bathing towel called Gamchha. Nowadays, Bodo men rarely wear the Gamsa though. They have switched to the modern shirt and pant attire now.
Dance and Music of Bodo People
One of the sweetest memories from my trip as a Season 2 Bodoland Ambassador is a visual of the Bagurumba dance with its accompanying music. I was so hooked to the song I can still hear it now when I close my eyes.
Bagurumba is a traditional Bodo dance form performed by Bodo women. The women are all clad in Dokhonas, Aronais, and Jwmgras. They wear jewelry and Bindis and look very pretty as they dance to the tunes of the Bagurumba song. During the dance, they flap the sides of their Jwmgra thus resembling butterflies. Therefore, Bagurumba is also called the Butterfly Dance. This dance is a delight to watch and an absolute must-do on any trip to Bodoland.
While the women dance and sing, the men play a variety of musical instruments. Drums, violins, and flutes are some of the common ones. The Bagurumba experience was quite different from the customs of the Tiwa tribe (another Assamese tribe) in Umswai Valley where the men did the dancing as well as the playing.
Related Read: Why the Umswai Valley in Assam makes for such an attractive day-trip destination from Guwahati
Festivals in Bodoland
Baishagu is the main festival of Bodo people. It heralds the new year for the Bodo tribe around the same time as Bihu heralds it for Assam and Baisakhi does for Punjab. During Baishagu, Bodos worship their God Bathou by offering him food and dancing to the tunes of Bagurumba. It usually happens in April. If you are a culture enthusiast, it is a good time to plan your trip to Bodoland.
Bodoland is also home to the famous Dwijing Festival that happens in Bongaigaon. It happens every year from the last week of December to the first week of January. Dwijing Festival celebrates River Aie and its importance in the lives of the Bodo people. At the festival grounds, you can see snippets from the lives of Bodos, taste Bodo cuisine, buy exclusive Bodo souvenirs, and watch cultural performances. Essentially, Dwijing Festival is a celebration of Bodo heritage.
Related Read: How the Dwijing Festival in Bodoland is celebrating art and blurring boundaries
Occupations of Bodo people
Silk weaving Animal rearing
Silkworm rearing and weaving
Bodo people are enthusiastically engaged in rearing silkworms and hence, producing silk. Apparently, they were one of the first communities in India to start rearing silkworms. You can see large swathes of silkworms in Bodo courtyards. They weave their own silk too. I got to see a family loom where Bodo women were weaving their own Dokhonas.
Remember the Agor? This is where the knowledge comes in handy!
Fishing
Fishing is one of the major occupations of Bodo people. Bodo women love to fish with traditional fishing equipment such as the Jekhai and the Khobai that you can see in the picture above. The Jekhai, in her hands, helps her trap the fishes and the Khobai, tied to her waist, helps her in storing them. Women usually fish in small streams while men may go out to bigger rivers for the big catch. Bodo men use modern nets to get their catch.
Rice cultivation
Bodos were one of the first tribes to introduce rice cultivation in northeast India. Rice grows easily in Bodoland. It is consumed even more heartily. You will find boiled rice, rice cakes, rice wine, rice beer, and even rice pastes used as thickening agents in the Bodo cuisine.
Myths and folklore
Wherever there is life, there are myths and there are lores! Myths and folklore are an integral part of evolving cultures. That is why the Bodos have them too.
Are the Bodos descendants of Bhima from the Mahabharata?
Bodos believe they are descendants of Bhima, a mythological character from the Hindu epic Mahabharata. Legend has it that the Bodos descend from Ghatotkacha, the son of Bhima and Hidimba, a princess of the northeast. Some Bodos believe that they are descendants of Rama, the protagonist of the other Hindu epic Ramayana.
There are other interesting tales than talk about how the Bodos existed even before the Vedas (Hindu religious scriptures) were written. And many Bodo rituals and deities were incorporated into Hinduism later.
My two cents: Could be possible because eventually, Hinduism was the agglomeration of many different religions from all over the Indian subcontinent. What do you think?
The tale of a demure Bodo widow or a courageous Bodo heroine!
Another interesting story that I came across when I was working on an article on the art installations at the Dwijing Festival was that of Thengphakhri. Thengphakhri was a Bodo heroine and an extremely courageous woman from the British era. Apparently, she was a widow. Yet, she would dress as a man and go around collecting taxes. She even yielded a sword when the time came. Today, Thengphakri is the embodiment of bravery for Bodo people. At Dwijing Festival 2019-20, there was a special art piece dedicated to her.
How can you experience the life and culture of Bodo people?
Now that you have read so much about the Bodo tribe in India, aren’t you curious to find out how and where you can experience the Bodo way of life? I was curious too. That is why I created this list to help you out.
- The easiest way to see the Bodo way of life is by attending the Dwijing Festival. It is held every year on the banks of River Aie in Bongaigaon, one of the major cities of Bodoland. Usually happens in the last week of December and the first week of January.
Bongaigaon has some good accommodation options. You can book your stay at Hotel Himalaya or Cygnett Park Meghana. - Kokhrajhar houses a Bodo Museum where you can get glimpses of Bodo history, way of living, costumes, jewelry, and household equipment. The museum was established in 1986 and was moved to a permanent building in 2008.
Disclaimer: I have not visited the museum hence, I am not aware of its current state. I have reached out to authorities regarding this and will update here as soon as I am aware. - The best way to experience Bodo culture is to visit small villages in Bodoland. We are expecting homestays to come up in these small villages in the future. But until then, you can collaborate with organizations such as the Root Bridge Foundation to plan your trip in this part of the world. Root Bridge Foundation has done a considerable amount of good work in the northeast of India. They are also the ones that organize the Bodoland Ambassador Program every year.
If you still find it hard to plan your trip to Bodoland, send me a note. Together, we can figure out how to go about it.
Finally, is it safe to travel to Bodoland?
Traveling to Bodoland is as safe as traveling to any other part of the world. As of January 2020, the Government of India signed a new peace accord with the National Democratic Front of Bodoland. This gives more power to the autonomous region of Bodoland and hence, an opportunity to grow and develop further.
Further, Bodos are one of the friendliest people that I have dealt with in all my travels. They always welcome you with a smile. It is not hard to make friends here. If you have some local help planning your trip to Bodoland, you should be good.
That brings me to the end of my article on the life and culture of Bodo people. So, when are you planning your trip here? Is there anything else you wish to know? Drop a comment below and let’s get the conversation going.
Your Site is really amazing love to read your article on our Bodo Tradition food culture etc. Thank you for sharing our culture to world.
Thank you for your kind words. People definitely need to know more about Bodo culture and lifestyle. It is so rich and unique.
You are really honourable mam… Such great action for introducing our culture in the world… Thanks a lot
Thank you for your kind words, Karan. I am so happy to do my bit in introducing the vibrant culture of Bodos to the rest of the world.
Thank you so much mam… You’re really responsible for bodo peoples.. I really would like to thanking you for sharing our tribe..please come again mam in our Bodoland and learn more and share more on your website… ❤❤❤
Thank you so much, Nerswn, for your kind words. I really liked the 10 days I spent in Bodoland, learning about Bodo people and culture. It was an enriching experience and I am glad that I could write about it and share it with the world. I would love to come back again, soon.
Yes absolutely right..she posted about life and culture of our tribe. I also would like to thanks to you mam. Please Do come again mam…
I will surely come back when I get a chance. Bodoland is beautiful.
It really is quite amazing how our country is so diverse and not only do we have so many cultures, sub-cultures, languages, some actually vary drastically from the others. I have only heard about Bodoland and the Bodos but never researched enough to know who they are and how they’re different from other Assamese, for example. I do remember reading about them wanting a sovereign homeland and the restlessness that followed, violent to a great extent but that’s all I know. I have never even heard of the religion Bathouism! Such an interesting read and insight into the Bodos.
That’s so true, Medha. So many different cultures and sub cultures. Would take me a lifetime to know them all.
I AM BODO MA’AM BATHOUSIM IS A PART OF ANIMISIM. BATHOUSIM IS HUGE DIFFERENT FROM HINDU. BUT WE BODO STILL WRITE HINDU
I was not knowing anything about Bodo people and their history before reading your post. For me they were just normal Assamese but now read many interesting thing about them. Good to know that we can find vegetarian food here and interested about that Narzi as I too love bitter things some time. And as you assured us that it is safe to visit, then I would surely love to visit Bodoland and spent some time with friendly people here.
Yes, Yukti Bodoland is as safe as any other part of India now. The people are working hard to increase their incomes through tourism.
This was a neat insight into a culture I didn’t know anything about yet! I love the bold colors that the women wear, very pretty! And the food looks yummy but I am not sure how I would do trying a silkworm 😀
😄😄
I’d legitimately never heard of these people or their culture, so it was a pleasure to be able to learn about them!
First of all, congratulations on being chosen as one of the bloggers to showcase this lovely part of India. It was a joy to read your post as I got to learn so much about the culture and traditions of the Bodo people and thanks for the reminder to not refer to them as Assamese. I hadn’t known about the symbolism of the Shijou tree for those practicing Bathouism and neither did I know that silkworms were considered a delicacy here – will keep your tip in mind regarding the silkworm chaat. So glad you mentioned about the options for vegetarians as well – I’m a fan of neem and karela too so I’m now intrigued by Narzi – more bitter than karela – now that’s something I’d like to try once at least.
Hahahaha. You know what I was intrigued too. But it was way too bitter. Let me know when you try it.
That’s super cool that you got chosen and this must’ve been an incredible experience! I love that both their food and garments are so vibrant in color. Their dance and music are quite special too. (Even their instruments are unique.) Thanks for putting Dwijing Festival on my radar!
You are welcome, Jas. Am glad you liked the post. Hope you get to see the Dwijing Festival soon.
Such a detailed post. I did not know about this culture and I have traveled to India myself. I loved the shots you got while you were there. Especially the ones of the outfits!
Thanks Nishil. Agree, Bodoland is an extremely beautiful place to be.
Bodoland is an amazing place. I had the opportunity to visit there last year and know about the people and culture. Yes, I had also heard about the fact that they are the descendants of Ghatotkach. Could be possible. The Pandavas were known to explore different parts of India while their Vanvas. Oh! I tried the fried silkworms. Though I was a bit hesitant at first, I actually found it quite tasty. Did you try the snails?
No, I could not get myself to try the snails! Though some of my teammates relished them.
Thank you for virtually bringing us with you at Bodo. This is the first time I heard about them and you did a great job in featuring their stories. They way of fishing is very sustainable and I could imagine that they always have good catch 🙂
That’s true, Blair. The Bodo tribe practices extremely sustainable activities. This helps them to exist in harmony with nature
Nice posts and photos. I had a chance to visit one of their festivals in December but I decided to skip it because I had already done Hornbill and a local festival in Arunachal so had lost my interest in any thing else. But this blog has me intrigued. Hopefully, this year I’ll try to be there.